concours auto detailing
Concours Forum
For those among us who restore our Vintage Mustangs to levels Ford could only dream of! All things Concours - parts reviews, picture examples, judging rules and tips, etc.
- Need Reference Picture PLEASE!
Can anybody post a CORRECT picture for the 69 Shaker snorkle for 428 SCJ Drag Pak car please! - Detailing 66FB gill vents
I have no problem taking them apart and buffing the chrome but upon closer inspection there is also a coating of black paint inside the vents that will need to be touched up.
Any good suggestions on how to do this. Taping them up and exacto knifing them to the paint line looks like it would take forever. - Radiator cap
What is the proper color or finish for a 1967 dearbon radiator cap. I see chrome & zinc. Which is right? - 1965 rally pac questions
When I purchased my 1965 hardtop GT I was told by the seller that it included an original rally pac. It does have a rally pac but I have several questions regarding its authenticity and originality.
First off it is the original style rally pac. I know that the GT was not introduced until the one year anniversary of the Mustang. Since it is a GT it has the 5 dial gauges. Were the low profile rally pacs introduced at the same time as the 5 dial gauges or not until the 1966 model year? Is it possible that an original style rally pac could have been paired up with a 5 dial gauge car, originally? Of course I know that the dealer could have installed it (even in 1965) or it could have been added years later by a previous owner. What I am trying to figure out is if, in 1965, you could have seen a car with the 5 dial gauges and the original style rally pac for sale at a dealer, with the rally pac either from the factory that way or dealer installed before selling.
My next question is regarding the materials of the rally pac. My rally pac has chrome bezels around the front of the clock and the tach. I will try to post a picture, if I can figure out how. I have looked in many Mustang books and searched the web and have not found any rally pacs that look like that, original or reproduction. Someone even commented about them at a show I attended. Does anyone have any idea if this is some kind of reproduction unit or some ultra rare original? I lean toward the former.
Thanks
- 68 s-code questions
hello all,, i have a couple 68 s-code questions...1st what is the correct part numbered vaccum advance for a Feb NJ s-code with c-6 trans? is it single or dual vaccum port? (im thinking its like a 428 cj single for auto dual for 4 speed)....
2nd do all 68 s-codes have the vaccum valve on the drivers side if the air cleaner base? reason i ask is that we have 2 bases which i beleive to be correct (at least they have correct snorkle and lid) but neither have vaccum door on the side....was this on all s-codes? if so could the air cleaners i have be from x-code 390s?? both where bought from "390" cougars ...i realize this question is maybe hard to answer without the part numbers on the air cleaners i have..i can get them if necessary...thanks for any info,,jack - Q: 1970 Standard Cooling
I just noticed that my radiator is definitely not an original for my 1970 MACH1, 351C-4V, W/O AC, 4-Speed, build on Dearborn Nov-69.
Any idea from where this is from(DEP D4DH DA) and how this differ from C9ZZ-8005-E Unit?
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I know that my car should have an standard cooling package. I found an old thread from this site but unfortunately those pictures are no longer available.
OldThread
Does anyone have pictures what kind of radiator I need and how it should be installed? I read that there should be an some kind of spring nut between Filler panel(Deflector) and body becides of J-nuts and that this deflector should be installed L.H. side only?
Thanks,
-Polle
- 69 Alternator wiring
Does anyone have a picture or diagram of the correct wiring for 69 small block with tach? the wiring on mine is all screwed up. PLEASE HELP! - Original Fan Spacer
Could someone help me determine if the following picture is of an original fan spacer? It was taken off my '67 Mustang (289-2v, non A/C, no heavy duty cooling system... basically no options). It measures 2 1/4".
Fan Spacer - 1965 Rally Pac Color?
Hi Guys,
I have seen 65's with white interiors that have either a black or white Rally Pac.
Which is correct?
I have heard that it should be white for factory fitted and black if it was dealer fitted.
Is that correct?
Does anyone have a pic of a white one installed in the car?
Thanks! - Concourse C6 woes: Help?
Hi. I am looking for any and all feedback I can get pertaining to the following problems I am
encountering within the transmission in my project. It's a concourse project'67 with a 390 and C6 auto, completely, professionally rebuilt by someone working with Ford transmissions for over 30yrs.
Engine and trans are installed in car and "functioning"... i.e. it starts and runs, yard drives
and sounds good. Car has not been driven on highway or at a speed greater than 10mph.
The following problems have been encountered:
1) Shifting into ANY gear (drive, 1st, 2nd, reverse) will ALWAYS (a) "chirp" both
rear tires and then (b) stall the engine, unless you signficantly increase rpm prior to shifting
into gear.
I have double and triple checked that the rpm at idle is normal and that the C6 has good
vaccum. I have no idea why the thing is SO aggressive when shifting into any gear....just
chirps the tires and then immediately stalls. The only way you can get the car to stay running
in gear is to lay on the throttle before you shift into a gear. This yields a drag-racing start and
is obviously dangerous and undesirable. The professional who performed the rebuild said to drive the
car at highway speeds and it will fix itself. That doesn't sound like a reasonable fix to me.
What could be going on? Help!?
2) The car sat for approximately 3 months without being started. NO leaks of any kind were
noted during this time. Then, without being touched or started or moved in anyway, the transmission
dumped about 1qt of trans fluid onto the shop floor. I have verified it is leaking out of the
pan at the junction between the filler tube and pan. Again, no leaks for months and then 1qt
of fluid onto the floor. I suspected the fluid must have leaked back out of the torque converter
in order to all of a sudden force the fluid level in the pan to be above the filler tube level at
the case. To verify this theory, I simply started the engine and let it run for a few minutes
(to pump fluid back into the converter). No leaks detected in the two weeks since then. What gives!?
I spoke with the professional who performed the rebuild and all he said was to drive the car at
highway speeds and it will fix itself. That doesn't sound like a reasonable fix to me. Help!?